1966 Mustang Coupe 

1. Intro                                                           6. Assembly Begins
2. The Beginning                                             7. Assembly Continues
3. Strip Down                                                 8. Final Touches
4. Paint Booth                                                 9. The money pit
5. Finally Red                                                 10. The Grand Finale

8. Final Touches

  January 13:  I tried to get the car ready to drive to the tire shop so it could have new white wall tires put on. It still doesn't have the left side window or vent window installed into the door.I installed the left side rear view mirror, but the holes in the door were too big for the new mirror screws. I couldn't use bigger screws because the screw heads were too big and wouldn't fit in the recess of the mirror. I had made a 'nut-plate' from flat "tinnerman" nuts from my hardware collection and fastened them onto a short piece of steel 'plumbing tape'. This would have worked, except that the nuts were spaced exactly the same distance as the mirror mounting holes, and when I placed it inside the door panel under the mirror location, there was a big blob of bondo where the holes from the after-market mirror mounting holes were. I filed these down, but there was still enough of a bump to make my special nut-plate not aligned. I solved that by cutting it into two pieces. Problem solved.  I installed the weatherstriping on this side (just like the right side) to get ready for the window when my part comes. Since I knew I was going to be driving it in 35°F weather, I thought I should fix the heater. It was disconnected a long time ago and by-passed. One of the two hoses from the water pump to the heater was cut short and used to by-pass the connection but the other one was still intact. I went to Advance Auto Parts to buy a hose repair kit, and while I was there, I bought more license plate holding screws and plastic nuts. I installed the one side of the hose repair coupling and found out that there was about 5" or 6" of hose missing and it was too short. Instead of going back to the store, I just grabbed a spare piece of hose (from the air conditioning unit I ripped out) and rummaged through my plumbing hardware box and found a brass coupling for garden hose. It worked! Clamping this on, I thought I'd better check it out for leaks. I tried to start the engine, but it wouldn't turn over.
I thought  the battery was going, so I charged up the battery all night long.   Installed the air cleaner after assembling it. The 'snout' has two screws that screw into the main housing, but one screw had broken off inside the weld-nut and I tried to drill the screw out of it, but broke the drill bit inside of it. This is apparently why there was a sheet-metal screw screwed into that side right next to the broken screw. I tried to set things right but failed. The new sheet-metal screw is not original equipment, but at least it works. It doesn't look bad either, except it probably wouldn't pass any car show inspections. Installed the air cleaner and waited 'till morning. Still needs the hoses for the breather cap. Tried putting the windshield wipers on but the shafts were not turned off at the 'stopping point' and one wiper shot across the top of the fender and put a scratch and a nick into the paint. Damn%$#@#&. Finally figured out the positioning of the wipers and installed them, but they aren't sitting down as much as I'd like them to. (See Photo)
January 14: I tried to start the car in the morning after charging it all night, but it did the same thing. It 'clicked' but wouldn't turn over. Now my thoughts were maybe it's the starter. You know, these things go bad eventually, and it was pretty old. I didn't think it could be the battery - after all - It was less than a year old (I had it replaced when I started this project in the summer).  Well, I didn't drive it to work (or the tire shop). After work, I pulled the starter out and the cable that runs from the solenoid to the starter. The cable was cracking and pieces were coming off. Better replace that too. Went to get a new rebuilt starter and starter cable and installed them both.  Tried to start it one more time without success. Well, it must be the battery after all. Can't imagine why though.  I tried to see why the back-up lights don't work when you put it into reverse. There is a switch of some kind, on the underside by the shifter, that engages when the shifter is moved out of park.  One side is ground, and the other side goes to the firewall and into the dash somewhere. Surprise! That was one of the wires I cut off when I was pulling the air conditioning unit out from under the dash thinking it didn't do anything. I used a volt-meter to determine what it does. Apparently the wire is shorted to ground via the switch when it is out of park. Maybe a bad switch or positioning? I don't know yet. I couldn't find where I cut it from. One more thing to figure out, but not high on the priority list. Put the battery back on the charger hoping that maybe trying to start it with a 'bad' starter somehow drained it too much, and now that it has a new starter, I can try again tomorrow.

January 15: Tried to start the engine again. Same ol' story. Looked on the internet for some possible solutions. Number 1: The starter relay seems to be working. It clicks when the key is turned and the starter bendix gear engages. It doesn't turn though. The lights go dim when it is engaged but it won't turn. I put a breaker bar in the crankshaft pully and manually tried to turn the engine. Old engines seem to be loose enough to turn, even with everything still connected. Not my luck. It would only turn a minicule amount no matter how much torque I put on it. Bad News! Something in the engine must be broken and preventing it from turning over. I took the valve covers off to see it any rod were bent or springs were broken, but it looked pretty clean. Thinking an optimistic thought, I rolled the car out of the garage (with the help of Chris) to see if using jumper cables connected to the T-Bird would bring life back into the Mustang. It didn't help. I guess the next step is pulling the oil pan off and taking a look at the bottom end. A re-manufactured engine is going to cost $1125 and may take the next few weekends to put in. I'll take a look first. For now, EVERYTHING is on hold - no new tires, no window until I get parts, and no engine until I get money. Man, I wish I could win the lottery. The car is developing a new nickname - the 'money pit'.
 
 
 
 

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