May 2005

Date- Tuesday, 5/10/05
Start- Louisville, KY
Stop- Newport, TN
Miles Travelled- 0

After a 10 day or so hiatus I'm back in Tennessee. We left Louisville at about 3:30 and after a lesurly drive got here at about 11.

We are about a half hour from the trailhead. Looking forward to a good nights sleep and an early start tomorrow.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Wednesday, 5/11/05
Start- Newport, TN
Stop- Groundhog Creek Shelter
Miles Travelled- 7.2

I promised myself I would do a short day today to ease back into things after taking 10 or so days off. I'm glad I did because I'm really tired.

During my hiatus I had forgotten how endless some of the ups were. Snowbird was one of the endless ups. I got dropped off at about 9:30 thls morning and started hiking up. Didn't reach the top till 2:30 in the afternoon. There was a strange white structure at the top. The warning signs identified it as some type of FAA beacon. It may be, but it looks lilke something from area 51.

Kentuckians rule the shelter tonight In here with me is Tom, from Lexinton and Puxitawny Phil from the Hikes Point area in Louisville. Puxitawny graduated from St. X in 1970 and knows Billy Redmon. Claims he was Billy's wrestling partner. Well, they say it's a small world and I guess it is

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Thursday, 5/12/05
Start- Groundhog Creek Shelter
Stop- Roaring Fork Shelter
Miles Travelled- 11.3

Today was a long, grueling day in the heat. The temperature was in the 80s. Despite all of the above the day was very rewarding.

The main feature of the day was Max Patch. While I've been on other Balds before, Max Patch is the most magnificent one I've seen. The summit is gently dome shaped, nearly a mile across, and completely devoid of trees. Couple these facts with a perfectly clear day and the fact that it is the highest point for miles and the view. The complete 360 degree circle was stunning. I stayed up there for 2 hours before I felt like I had to move on.

The trail was virtually empty of hikers today. Most it seems have skipped ahead to Damascus, VA. Damascus is holding its annual Trail Days festival this weekend.

Am currently in the shelter with Tom from Lexington and Charles from Nashville.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Friday, 5/13/05
Start- Roaring Fork Shelter
Stop- Deer Park Mountain Shelter
Miles Travelled- 11.7

Today actually seemed easy. Though there was the daily 1000+ foot climb, there was only one of them. The rest of the way was moderately downhill to level. The rain helped to cool me down too.

Got to the shelter at about 5 and had to make a difficult decision. Hot Springs is only 3 easy miles away and it is so tempting to want to move on. However, I figured that by the time I got there most of the businesses would be closed and I would incur the cost of a room without being able to accomplish anything. I thought it better to spend a free night here and be in town by breakfast.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Saturday, 5/14/05
Start- Deer Park Mountain Shelter
Stop- Hot Springs, NC
Miles Travelled- 3.2

Hot Springs occupies many hikers minds from the minute they enter the Smokies. True, there are other trail towns but there is only 1 Hot Springs, NC.

The town is small, about a half mile from end to end. You could drive through it without realizing it but it is as close to hiker heaven as you can get. The trail goes right down main street. On this half mile stretch of road are 5 inexpensive to moderately priced places to stay, 3 restaurants, 2 grocers, a laundrymat, an outfitter, a mineral water hot spa, and a pub. What more do you need?

Hot Springs is a significant psychological milepoint as well. It is generally believed that if a hiker reaches Hot Springs in decent physical and mental shape there is no reason, except for injury, that they will be unable to hike at least to New Hampshire.

Had lunch at the Smoky Mountain Diner. Had one of the best burgers I ever had. It was so good I went back for dinner.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Sunday, 5/15/05
Start- Hot Springs, NC
Stop- Spring Mtn Shelter
Miles Travelled- 11

Well, I summoned up the determination and left Hot Springs this morning.

It was especially difficult to do because it was raining. The weatherman promised that it would clear in the afternoon and fortunatly he turned out to be right. I don't mind morning rains too much if I get to dry out in the afternoon.

I got here rather early and felt like going on but determined after checking the map and guidebook that the next likely camping area was 8 miles away and I didn't think I had another 8 in the legs.

Today I passed what looked like grave markers. I've passed old ones before but these were recent. I photographed them and if the inscriptlons are readable on the prints I will research them further.

It seems that most decided to stay in town today as it's just me and the mice here tonight.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Monday, 5/16/05
Start- Spring Mtn Shelter
Stop- Jerry Cabin Shelter
Miles Travelled- 15.4

The longest day yet and I'm completely exhausted so my notes may be incoherent.

The trail had just a little bit of everything today. The day started rough. The temperature was cool and the terraine was relatively easy. The problem was my back and the pack. Seems I could go only 15-20 minutes before it would spasm and I would have to stop to work it out.

It started getting hot as I got to the big climb of the day. It seems lately that the general terraine has leveled but each day has a major climb. For some reason the back pains stopped during the climb.

Once I reached the top, hiking became easy as I walked through a parklike meadow. Here I saw a Turkey wallkin up the trail toward me. By the time I got my camera out he hopped off and disappeared into the brush.

The day ended with a beautiful but terrirfying ridge walk. The ridge was made up of large blocks of rock sort of like paving stones. The main problem was that it was only 2 - 4 feet wide and was thousands of feet up. Some of these paving stones were only a few inches thick and some were 2 feet or more in thickness so you are constantly stepping up or down. To add to the fun most were canted at angles of up to 45 degrees towards the abyss on either side.

At Jerry Cabin Shelter I met other hikers! I had basically been alone since Hot Springs and it was pleasant to have company. These are section hikers I had overtaken and I suspect I won't be seeing them again.

The maintainer at Jerry Cabin has a sense of humor. The shelter was equipped with a light switch, a mailbox, and a wheelchair acessible picnic table.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

..Date- Tuesday. 5/17/05
Start- Jerry Cabin Shelter
Stop- Hogback Ridge Shelter
Miles Travelled- 14.7

Todays hike started out well. The grades were moderate. It was just like a road walk. In fact it was a road walk on a long abandoned road. It was very similar to Prather Road in the Louisville Nature Center.

The hike had a somber tone though. It was on this road that the Shelton brothers were bushwacked and killed in the 1860s. Even though they lived in N. Carolina they were Union Loyalists and fought in Lincoln's Army. They survived the war and were on their way home when they were ambushed by vengeance seeking Confederates. Their graves are along side the trail.

Hiking was so easy it encouraged a long day. Then disaster struck. Without warning my infamous knee popped and spasms of pain threw me to the ground. After a few minutes I managed to get up and hobbled the last mile to the shelter

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Wednesday. 5/18/05
Start- Hogback Ridge Shelter
Stop- Bald Mtn Shelter
Miles Travelled- 10

I knew today was going to be a difficult day when I woke up. It was going to be hot and humid. There were a couple of long climbs. And my leg was still throbbing.

It was more difficult than I expected. I had resolved to rest frequently in order to keep from overstressing the leg. However, whenever I stopped clouds of biting black flies descended on me. The day was sheer misery. It took me 12 hours to cover those 10 miles. I didn't even notice the views from Big Bald, reputed to rival Max Patch.

It was so bad I started entertaining notlons of leaving the trail at Erwin.

Shortly after I got to the shelter, Bill arrived. Bill is a local and comes up to the shelter 2 or 3 times a week bringing goodies to the hikers. He walked up and offered me a beer. Now I haven't had a beer in years and declined. As we sat talking I was thinking about how this guy walked all the way up here to give someone a beer and that there was no one to give one to. I changed my mind and accepted one. It was delicious. I savored it for over an hour. When it was finished he took the can, wished me a good night, and left.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Thursday 5/19/05
Start- Bald Mtn Shelter
Stop- No Business Knob Shelter
Miles Travelled- 10.6

A relatively hike over wide trail on good grade. Of course, there was the daily big descent (into Spivey Gap) and ascent out of it. There must be some unwritten rule among Trail Maintainers stipulating that each day must have a major up and down.

The leg seemed to respond well to yesterdays light day. I'm still taking it slow and breaking often. It is a bit frustrating and may cause me to re-evaluate how far I will get this season. I was wanting to be able to maintain a 15 mile per day pace. I seem to have the heart and lungs for it. The legs just can't seem to keep up.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Friday 5/20/05
Start- No Business Knob Shelter
Stop- Erwin, TN
Miles Travelled- 6.6

Spent a noisy night in the shelter as the lightning cracked, thunder rolled, and hail bounced off the tin roof. The weather was too bad for the mice to come out to play. At least it was dry in the shelter.

I think its time to introduce PUDS and MUDS. PUDS are pointless ups and downs. Too many PUDS become mindless ups and downs. Normally they occur when level terraine is expected.

The topographical maps I use have a 50 meter countour interval. This means that the elevation has to change 150 feet before it is indicated on the map. It's amazing how many 100 foot ups and downs can be compressed in a few miles while the map indicated level ground. This was before the long descent to the Nolichucky River and Erwin.

This area is Davy Crockett and Andrew Jackson territory. Both used to come to this area for community activities. In fact there used to be a racetrack here and Andy Jackson used to race his horses here. He insisted in riding his own mounts rather than hireing a professional jockey and never won a race.

Erwin is also noted as being the only town to have hung an elephant. The elephants are still boycotting the town. More on this later

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Saturday 5/21/05
Start- Erwin, TN
Stop- Erwin, TN
Miles Travelled- 0

While I've done one or two short days since I restarted, I believe this is the first 0 mile day in a while.

In looking back over prevlous entries I fear I may have painted an overly grim picture of long distance hiking. It has its light side and many enjoyable moments. I don't know why I don't mention these more. Perhaps its because they are so commonplace that only the bad times stand out.

Long distance hiking is physically demanding and punishing. On the other hand, it is mentally, emotionally, and spiritually healing.

I see evidence of this healing in the shelter registers. Two months ago entries were brief and factual. "Gray Ghost arrived last night and left this morning", would be a typical early Georgia entry from most hikers. Now entries may be a page or two in length and are festooned with drawings and poetry. It's as if creativity is reawakening or perhaps hikers are losing their fear of letting it show.

What you are now matters more than what you have. In Georgia, a lot of mental energy was focused on equipment. Hikers were comparing their stuff with other's stuff and wholesale gear changes were made at the Walasi-Yi. Most hikers are now beyond that and no longer even cares what another has. With that issue behind them, hikers are focusing more on each other as people. I probably know more about people I meet here than I do people back home.

When 2 hikers meet or pass each other for the first time they introduce themselves and exchange a greeting. I rarely see this acknowledgement of another human being on Louisville streets.

Of course there's the health benefit. I'm sure the low fat diet, reduced calories, fresh air, pure water, and regular exercise are adding years to our lives.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It's getting more difficult to leave towns. I think hunger has more to do with it than anything. The trail ration is quite meager. I figure a pound and a half of food per day is all I can manage to carry. Of course this is dehydrated weight. When hydrated it converts to about 3 lbs per day. And that just ain't enough. I try to evenly distribute this ration throughout the day to avoid energy spikes and dips. Consequently I always feel hungry, a condition easily (though expensively) solved in town.

At any rate I didn't get out of town till 4:30 after breakfast, 2nd breakfast, lunch, afternoon snack, and early dinner.

The food plus the rest day does add new spring to your step. Less than 2 1/2 hours after leaving town I had covered the 4.2 miles and 1,300 feet in elevation gain to get here. I remember when It would have taken 5 1/2 hours to cover the same distance and elevation.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date- Monday 5/23/05
Start- Curley Maple Gap Shelter
Stop- Cherry Gap Shelter
Miles Travelled- 12.2

Today's hike really kicked my butt. It featured a 1,400 ft climb to Beauty Spot, followed by a 1,000 foot ascent and descent of Unaka Mtn, and ending with a 300 foot ascent and descent of some unnamed knob. The trail was very rocky and rooty. To add to the difficulty, it rained last night leaving everything a slippery muddy mess.

I did get to meet Sheltowee. He thru-hiked the AT in 1999 and hiked coast to coast in 2001. By the way he is employed by BSA and is a DE in the Dan Beard Council.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date- Tuesday 5/2405
Start- Cherry Gap Shelter
Stop- Clyde Smith Shelter
Miles Travelled- 8.8

A short day today. I stopped at about 3:30 for a number of reasons.

First, I promised my leg an easy day today. The terrain has been a little rugged and my leg has been talking to me about yesterday's 12.2.

Then I heard that there are bad thunderstorms predicted for this afternoon and evening so I wanted to stay at a shelter. The next shelter is another 6.4 miles and 2,000 ft up. It would take me another 5 or so hours to get there and I didn't want to risk getting caught in between.

Finally, there's the temperature. It is currently 49 at mid afternoon. It will definitely get colder once the sun goes down and because of elevation difference the temperature at the next shelter will probably be 10 to 12 degrees colder.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Wednesday 5/2505
Start- Clyde Smith Shelter
Stop- Stan Murray Shelter
Miles Travelled- 11.2

What a day this has been. Actually, it started last night. Babs, Mike, JD, Jim, and I had been hiking together since Erwin. JD and Jim are brothers-in-law who started at Erwin. This was Jim's first backpacking trip and he usually lagged behind. We had agreed to stop at Clyde Smith Shelter and one by one we all showed up, except for Jim.

No one got concerned till 2 hours passed then JD decided to go back and look. He went back to the last point Jim was actually seen but couldn't find him. We figured that he passed the shelter turn off and was headed for the next shelter. By that time it was getting dark and it was getting very cold and windy. JD concluded that Jim did have enough general woods knowledge to make it through the night and we went to sleep ourselves.

The next morning we started out and up. About 1 1/2 miles up the trail, in a difficult cliffy area, we find Jim's pack. We immediately started calling for him. There was no response. We started looking along the edge and over the edge searching for signs of disturbance indicating that someone had fallen and found none. JD started to climb down the side. This is not good I thought. If he slipped there would be 2 victims instead of one. JD went down anyway.

It was then that I realized that if Jim had gone over the side and was hurt, we would not be able to get him back up. We needed professional help. I tried calling the Forest Service but couldn't get a signal out. Babs thought that she may get through from the top of the ridge. She and Mike went up while I stayed with JD.

She was able to get through and while she was filing the report up comes Jim, safe and sound. He had passed the shelter turnoff. He said that it was getting dark and windy and he was getting cold. He knew from conversations that there was a road about 2 miles further. He panicked, dropped his pack, and ran for the road. He flagged a car and was taken to the forest service office where he spent a warm night eating bologna sandwiches. His only complaint was that the Forest Service Personnel refused to send someone up to retrieve his pack and let us know he was alright.

I won't go into details about the verbal abuse heaped on poor Jim.

This adventure caused us to get a late start to a tough day. The main feature was the 2,240 foot climb of Roan Mountain. Near the top there was a clearing with a marker indicating that this was the site of the Hotel in the Clouds. During the 1800s there was a grand hotel on the spot straddling the state line. The floor even had the state line painted on it. The painted line had practical value because it was legal to drink alcohol in Tennessee while it was illegal in North Carolina. North Carolina maintained a force of deputies on the premise to arrest any miscreant that crossed the line with a drink.

North of Roan Mountain I crossed 3 rocky knobs. I read that the rocks on these particular knobs are thought to be the oldest rocks on the trail. They are thought to be 2.5 billion years old.

Got to the shelter very late (after dark) tonight.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Thursday 5/2605
Start- Stan Murray Shelter
Stop- Applehouse Shelter
Miles Travelled- 9.9

A beautiful hike today. Perhaps the most scenic day of the trip.

When I woke this morning I wasn't sure what I was going to do. Hikers had been telling me not to miss Overmountain Shelter. It was a room with a view. However, it was only 2 miles from where I had stopped and I did want to make it to Hwy 19E by evening. While mulling everything over time was passing and I didn't get started till after 10.

I decided to visit the shelter, a converted barn and the view was stunning. My brief stop lasted more than 2 hours. I finally forced myself to move on and began the moderate climb of Little Hump Mountain and rough rocky rooty descent into Bradley Gap. Ups and downs don't bother me much but rocks and roots wrek havoc with my leg.

From Bradley Gap I started the easy climb up Hump Mtn and was awestruck. Hump Mtn is a Bald with no trees to obstruct the view. On either side was a valley and in the distance I could see parallel ridgelines. This was the start of a 2 mile Bald ridge walk. I was high enough that I was able to look down on the surrounding mountain tops and gaps and saw the towns and villages in the gaps. It was like looking down at a 3 dimensional model. Eventually I came to the end and began the descent to 19E.

The initial stages of the descent were tough. They were steep, rocky, and rooty. This soon gave way to an even, gently sloped, downhill path.

I didn't quit get to 19E, I'm about a half mile short. The B&B I was hoping to stay at had a 8:00 check in deadline and it's nearly 9. It's a decent shelter so I decided to stop here.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Friday 5/2705
Start- Applehouse Shelter
Stop- Campsite near Mountaineer Falls
Miles Travelled- 8.9

A day of indecision and a little bit of frustration. Over the past day or so I have been developing a moderate chafing problem. Moderate means extremely painful. Severe leads to insanity if not promptly treated.

Chafing is similar to diaper rash and in adults is usually caused by an accumulation of salt on the skin and in the clothing. Perspiration is salty and when it evaporates the salt crystals remain on the skin and clothes. These crystals act like tiny knives and inflict thousands if not millions of microscopic cuts. Since these cuts are small they heal fast, generally overnight, once the source of irritation is removed.

With that thought in mind, I started early and made my way to Hwy 19E where I heard there was a reasonably priced bed & breakfast. I was willing to stay overnight if it gave me the opportunity to shower and wash my clothes. I didn't realize that check in wasn't till 3:00. This caused a problem because I didn't want to sit on the side of a highway, in the sun for 5 hours. I then remembered the stream by the shelter I stayed at the night before. I figured why not. I hiked back to the shelter took off my boots and jumped into the creek. The cool water immediately soothed the burning. After 15 minutes or so I reasoned that most of the salt had been rinsed away and climbed out of the creek. When I stopped dripping I put my boots back on and hiked back to 19E, crossing it and continuing on.

It's a shame I had all that delay because the hiking was really easy and I could have made many more miles than I actually did.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Saturday 5/2805
Start- Campsite near Mountaineer Falls
Stop- Moreland Gap Shelter
Miles Travelled- 9.2 tough miles

Today's hike had positive and negative features.

It seems that the dip in the creek yesterday did the trick. No chafing.
I also got the best nights sleep since I've been out. The site was covered with a thick layer of pine needles that created a perfect mattress. I had the opportunity to see several young fawns. One of them must have heard me coming and curled up and froze right on the trail. I stopped and got a picture. It didn't move till I was well past it then it let out a loud "mew" and ran into the woods. They sound like overgrown kittens.

Another had nested down about 4 feet from where I plopped my butt for a break. I didn't see it till I got up. It then startled and ran. That startled me. I guess that makes him and us even.

Oh, by the way, North Carolina is history. I'll be in Tennessee for the next 4 or 5 days and then on into Virginia.

If you don't want to hear the complaints stop reading here.

The formal name of the AT is the Appalachian Trail. The informal name is Affordable Torture. It seems that once one physical discomfort is relieved, another arises to take its place. The calluses on my feet have gotten so thick they are starting to hurt. I constantly feel like I have a rock in my boot. Actually I do but it is attached to my foot and I don't know what to do about it.

A more serious concern is my allergies. Earlier in the spring I was fine. A 400 to 500 foot climb was taken in stride. Now the forest is bursting with life around me and my eyes are burning, my nose is stuffy, and congestion is building in my chest. I can't seem to manage a 100 foot up without having to stop to catch my breath. I have started myself on Benadryl. I don't know what I'll do if it doesn't help. The allergy has bothered me for a number of years but has never interfered with my normal sedentary life. Out here it's a different story.

Water management is becoming an issue. Seasonal springs are already slowing to a trickle. Some that are still flowing are labled, "contaminated". When I come to a good source I drink till I feel sick and fill my bottle which I sip from as sparingly as possible.

Final complaint is about the trail in this section. As the crow flies, it is 4 miles from the last shelter to this. Somehow the trail maintainers managed to squeeze more than 18 miles of PUDS and MUDS (previously defined) in between the 2 shelters. I probably ascended and descended over 3,000 feet on trail that was shown on the map to be essentially level.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Sunday 5/29/05
Start- Moreland Gap Shelter
Stop- Kincora Hiker Hostel
Miles Travelled- 6.2

What a day. It took over 8 hours to cover this 6.2 miles. Everything hurts: shoulders, arms, back, hips, thighs, knees, calves, ankles, an feet. Everything. I usually try to take a 10-15 minute break every hour or so. I found myself breaking every 15 to 20 minutes. I know the symptoms. Exhaustion is setting in. The muscles have been consuming nutrient faster than it was being replenished and are completely depleted and lactic acid is beginning to accumulate in them. I was lightheaded all day, another sign of low blood

When my children were little they had a game called Oregon Trail. Occasionally, during the course of the game, someone would die from exhaustion. I was beginning to wonder if that was really possible. I am in sore need of a rest day.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Monday 5/30/05
Start- Kincora Hiker Hostel
Stop- Kincora Hiker Hostel
Miles Travelled- 0

I feel like a new person today. A good meal, a hot shower, and clean clothes are all it took. I was greatly tempted to leave but was talked into staying over one day.

Bob Peoples, the hostel owner, has taken care of thousands of hikers over the years. He told me that it generally takes the muscles 48 hours to recover and that pushing on before recovery will greatly increase the risk of severe injury.

He also advised me that the next section was extremely demanding with a 2,000 ascent over 2 miles and a 2,000 descent over 2 miles. This is significantly steeper than the usual 500 feet per mile that I huff and puff over.

I admit I'm still tired. I slept for 9 hours last night, have only been up for 2 and I'm ready for a nap.

I've been wondering how I got into this condition and was playing with numbers. When I started, I was taking a rest day a week but was only going 35-40 miles per week.
I took the first one at Neels Gap after going 30.5 miles. The next one was 36 miles later at Hiawassee. Forty miles later found me taking another at Franklin. Fifty-Six miles later found me taking a day in Fontana Dam. Attempting the 70 mile stretch in the Smokeys resulted in a slip and an injury. I won't belabor the point by going on but I checked the latest figures and found that it's been a full week and 71 miles since my last break. I guess it is about due.

A few side notes. Kincora is Celtic and means, "kinship of the heart".

I met an Alaskan who probably knows Mary Anne. He worked at Pump Station 4, near Tulik. He told me that the researchers at Tulilk sometimes came to the Pump Station for meals.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date- Tuesday 5/31/05
Start- Kincora Hiker Hostel
Stop- Watuga Lake Shelter
Miles Travelled- 10.9

The day off really revitalized me. I still have plenty of energy and stopped only because of approaching darkness.

The day started rough with a short but steep descent into Laurel Gorge. Laurel Falls was captivating and I lingered way too long but the day was hot and the spray from the falls was cool. When I decided to leave, I couldn't find my way out of the gorge. I climbed the wall 3 times looking for the trail out and yes they were vertical cliffs. I was using exposed root as foot and handholds. To make matters worse I spotted 2 copperheads while on the cliffs. I don't worry about the snakes I see but I was starting to worry about the ones I wasn't seeing. I finally decided to backtrack the way I entered the gorge and found the way out. The trail had turned and I missed the turn. This escapade cost me about 5 hours

Once out of the gorge I started the mandatory daily climb. This was the 2,000 foot ascent and descent of Pond Flats which definitely wasn't flat and had no pond.

Once off Pond Flats it was an easy walk to the shelter.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------