June 2005

Date- Wednesday 6/1/05
Start- Watuga Lake Shelter
Stop- Vandeventer Shelter
Miles Travelled- 6.8

If I were in town this morning, I would have stayed there. My mom had a term for this weather, "just plain nasty".

The wind started last night when I was awakened by the sound of branches hitting the shelter roof and it was unrelenting all day.

The temperature never got out of the fortys, it rained lightly all day, and I was in a cloud so thick that I couldn't see my feet at times. Finally, I'm on an open ridge with no escape from the constant 30-40 mph wind. The ground, when I can see it looks like fall because there are so many leaves on the ground. Only, these leaves are green.

I reached this shelter at around 2:00. I originally planned to pass it up but then I reconsidered. This shelter is situated such that it is out of the wind and the wind may be blowing into the next one. There is room for me here and that may not be the case at the next one. Finally, I don't know if I have the strength to fight this wind for another 6 hours.

All things considered, I decided to stop here for the day.

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Date- Thursday 6/2/05
Start- Vandeventer Shelter
Stop- Double Spring Shelter
Miles Travelled- 14.4

Slept surprisingly well last night while the wind roared and howled. It was almost as loud as a UPS jet.

Conditions were only slightly better this morning. I took this to be a good sign, at least they weren't worse. However, I planned another 6.7 mile day.

By noon conditions had improved to what I call perfect. The wind had died and the rain stopped. It remained overcast with the temperature hanging in the mid-fifties. I also hit the section of trail nicknamed, "The Tennessee Turnpike". This is a long stretch of broad, relatively flat trail. The few ups and downs are short and well graded. Best of all, it runs all the way into Virginia (only 15 miles away).

I passed by the Nick Grindstaff memorial today. Nick is Tennessee's most celebrated hermit. He went out west to find his fortune and did indeed become wealthy. He was a kind, trusting man and was soon swindled out of everything he had. He returned to Tennessee and lived as a hermit for the rest of his life.

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Date- Friday 6/3/05
Start- Double Spring Shelter
Stop- Damascus, VA
Miles Travelled- 18.3

A number of firsts today. The first time I started before 8:00 am. The first time I was able to do consecutive long days without destroying my legs. My first sightings of a bear and great horned owl. The first time I was attacked by a bird. The first day I tripped over my shorts.

When I stopped last night I toyed with the idea of trying to reach Damascus today. Eighteen miles was unthinkable a few weeks ago. It would be a long day but this is the Tennessee Turnpike.

I surprised myself when I woke up early eager to go. Once started I fell back into a familiar pattern. It took 7 hours to cover the first 8 miles. High gear then kicked in and I covered the final 10 miles in less than 4 hours. I can't believe it takes me so long to loosen up but apparently it does.

I was a little nervous for a while today. I spied fresh bear tracks and scat. The tracks were going the same way I was. After about 10 minutes I finally saw it. Actually I saw a bear butt as it was scrambling down the side of the mountain. I guess it heard me coming and decided to vacate the area. The whole incident had me looking over my shoulder for a mile or so.

A few years ago I went to Gettysburg with a group of Scouts. As we were hiking in the area we passed a small farm that had a flock of chickens milling around the yard. One of the scouts decided he wanted to pet a chicken. Unfortunately for him the chicken wanted nothing to do with the matter and attacked with beak and talon. It got to be a joke because he took a licken from a chicken.

Well, a similar thing happened to me today. I was walking along when a very agitated grouse exploded out of the brush. It was hissing and pecking at my legs. I took more than a few quick steps to get out of its territory.

It finally happened. I lost most of my waistline and my shorts are getting looser and looser. In fact I've been sagging for a couple of weeks. Today they slid clear down to my knees. Sometimes hiking alone has its advantages.

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Date- Saturday 6/4/05
Start- Damascus, VA
Stop- Damascus, VA
Miles Travelled- 0

Today was general clean up and resupply day. A shower and clean clothes make me feel like a new person. I also thoroughly washed my cookpot and spoon and reprovisioned. I've also been rehydrating. I must have drunk a gallon and a half of water today.

Alas, I finally broke down and bought a new pair of socks. I hated doing so but my old pair had about 800 miles on them and were beginning to get a bit thin in spots. Smart Wools are expensive to buy but they are worth the price.

I am staying at, "The Place" a hostel operated by the Damascus United Methodist Church. It is another honor system hostel. You come in, pick a bunk, sign the register, and put your 2,3, or 4 dollars in the box.

Damascus is very used to us transients. The AT and 2 major bicycle trails The Virginia Creeper and The National Bike Trail converge on the town. The town isn't very big about 5 blocks long and 3 or 4 wide but I counted 6 churches. The Gideons must have had a field day here. Of course the hostel has several but I also found 2 at the laundry and 1 in a restaurant.

It is very warm today. Hope the temperature is cooler at the higher elevations as I will be going up about 4,000 ft over the next 2 days.

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Date- Sunday 6/5/05
Start- Damascus, VA
Stop- Lost Mountain Shelter
Miles Travelled- 15.8

Last night I was invited to a party. Stops-A-Lot hosted a 500 mile party. It was at the Mill, Damascus' Inn, Restaurant, and Pub. About a dozen people were there. It was essentially an open bar with all drinks charged to his room. I had a couple of soft drinks and excused myself saying, truthfully that I had to get dinner. He wouldn't hear of that and had the waitress bring me a menu. The prices made me wince but I ordered at his insistence. It cost me nothing. I finally broke down and had a beer. I left at 9:00 because I knew I had a long day ahead. I heard that everyone else stayed till the place closed at 2:30am.

My plans for an early start were upset when 1 1/2 out of town I realized I didn't have my camera and had to go back to get it. That 3 miles is not reflected in the miles travelled.

Some sections of today's hike were very easy. Other sections were rough and it was tempting to cheat. The AT ran parallel to the Virginia Creeper Trail. In fact the AT and the Creeper were one and the same at either end of the hike. After a half mile or so the 2 diverged an the AT rose 1,000 feet , descended, rose another thousand, and then descended to rejoin the Creeper which had remained flat.

Tomorrow promises to be a hard day with a 2,300 ft ascent, 1,000 foot descent, and 1,400 foot ascent. Looks like the Tennessee Turnpike did not extend into Virginia. Hope its cooler tomorrow than it was today.

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Date- Monday 6/605
Start- Lost Mountain Shelter
Stop- Thomas Knob Shelter
Miles Travelled- 12.2

The day was as difficult as I thought it would be which made it easy. It's a mental and emotional thing. I can handle a difficult day if I'm prepared for it. I sometimes want to throw in the towel when the day doesn't go as easily as I expect.

There were some bright spots. When I completed the long climb up Buzzard Rock I ran into a large group of high school students and their chaperones getting ready for a lunch break. I was invited to join in, an invitation I eagerly accepted. It was the best trail lunch I had since I started.

I got to see a different sort of animal today. The trail wound through a pasture complete with cows, calves, and bulls. I was a little nervous but I made it across without incident.

In the shelter tonight with White Crow (from Louisville), Captain Morgan, and 6 teenagers who are out for a couple of days. The teens were a mixed group of ROTC high school students and enlisted men just out of basic. They were wearing camouflage and will be referred to as the Commandos. They were nice kids but didn't have a clue as to what the were doing.

The shelter was a pig sty when Captain Morgan, White Crow, and I showed up. Gear was strewn across the shelter mixed in with empty cans, food wrappers, and cigarette packs. I made a comment to the effect that it reminded me of some tents I'd seen at summer camp. We got to work and got the kids to clean up the place and compact their stuff. One of the Commandos overheard my comment about summer camp and we got into a general conversation about Scouting. He told me that they were all current or former boy scouts and that he was an Eagle Scout. I rolled my eyes in despair.

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Date- Tuesday 6/705
Start- Thomas Knob Shelter
Stop- Old Orchard Shelter
Miles Travelled- 11

Well, the Commandos got up early and left a big mess when they departed this morning. Capt, White Crow, and I picked up what we could in order to carry it out to properly dispose of.

Today's hike wound through Grayson Highlands State Park, a park known for both its beauty and feral ponies. Well I wasn't too impressed with Grayson. The scenery may or may not have been beautiful, I wouldn't know. My eyes were glued to the ground watching where I placed every foot as I walked over the most rock filled sections of trail I have ever been on.

To top it all off I was assaulted by a horse, well a pony. I had heard about the ponies and expected small things about waist high. They are feral but are not timid. They are known to approach people and lick their arms and legs for the salt. Well they are larger than waist high shoulder high is more like it and they are very strong. They are easily capable of knocking you over. Well I got a thorough licking: legs, arms, and neck. The beast just wouldn't be denied. There was no way I could push it away and I didn't want to hurt it. I finally crossed a crevasse it must have considered too big to cross and it stayed on its side glaring at me.

The ponies are not native. There are no native horses in the Americas. The herd was placed there in the 70's by park officials looking for a cost effective means to control vegetation growth. They tried goats and sheep but those critters ate the poisonous mountain laurel and died. They then tried the ponies and found that they thrived. Each year there is an annual round up. Each is examined by a vet and surplus ponies are auctioned off.

During the afternoon I reached a large clearing called, "The Scales", where there was a forest service campground. At about that time the sky darkened, the wind picked up dramatically, and the thunder rumbled. Another of those severe mountain thunderstorms was almost upon me and I was in one of the worst possible places; a high, treeless spot with no time to get off.

Looking across the field I saw what looked like a privy and headed for it. It was a privy, not the most desirable shelter but better than none. Within minutes the rain was coming down so hard I couldn't see more than 50 feet and the wind was blowing so hard I could hardly crack open the privy door to peek out. The crack of lightening and the boom of thunder filled the air.

After a few minutes I saw someone standing out in the storm with a map. It was one of the commandos. Talk about not having enough sense to come in out of the rain. I ran out and suggested that he come in to someplace warm and dry and he joined me in the privy. He told me that he had gotten separated from his friends, knew where they were heading, and that he was trying to find a short cut in order to catch up with them. He was soaking wet and shivering. He wanted to leave and catch his friends so they wouldn't worry and look for him. I told him that it was dangerous outside, that he was in a relatively safe place, and that if his friends were smart they would also be hiding in a safe place. He didn't have any dry clothes but he did have a rainsuit that I had him put on to help seal in body heat and the shivering soon stopped.

After a while, 3 more Commandos appeared. I went out and got them and put them in the now crowded privy. With all the people in there it started getting quite warm.

After about an hour the storm abated and I got ready to leave. They were discussing heading for their cars and leaving for good. I didn't say anything but I thought they had a very good idea. I never did find out what happened to the other 2 commandos.

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Date- Wednesday 6/8/05
Start- Old Orchard Shelter
Stop- Fox Creek Trailhead @ VA603
Miles Travelled- 1.7

Spent a quiet and contemplative night last night. I knew it was going to be my last night on the trail for a while.

For the past few weeks I have been receiving reports telling me that things are not running as smoothly for Mary Rose as we had hoped. Things are falling apart at home and she really needs me there for a while. I have to get with Herman Wyssbrod and Jeremy Whitmer and get the Boy Scout Roundtable Calendar prepared and I have to find out and prepare for my role in Scouting for the coming year.

Its not just these responsibilities that bringing me home. I admit that I miss Mary Rose and my sons and daughters and I am looking forward to seeng them and being with them for a while. I am definately not looking forward to the mountain of work facing me but being with the people will be great.

I intend to return and finish this hike, it's a wonderful experience; I just don't know exactly when. If I can get everything wrapped up at home and with Scouts in the next 2 weeks or so I may go back even though hiking will become more difficult and dangerous. If not, I will be returning next spring.

The increased danger revolves around the change in the season to hot weather. Bears and snakes are already starting to become more active and visible and the seasonal springs are already drying up making water harder to find. The heat and scarcity of water make dehydration and heat stroke nore likely to occur. I will be far behind the groups of fellow experienced hikers who have learned to count on each other to help in case trouble arises. We have already faced a lot together and helped each other through the difficult times: frostbite, hypothermia, broken bones, blown knees, numerous sprains, aches, and pains are all things that have come up from time to time with one or an other of us and as a hiking family we've overcome these obsticals. This family will be far ahead of me and I will only have relatively green, inexperienced day hikers and weekend hikers wh don't have this sense of family and camaraderie that my hiking family has. I would really rather not have to depend on the Commandos should I run into some type of difficulty.

Despite these increased risks, I still want to return. It's wonderful to fall asleep within 5 minutes of laying down because the mind is free from worry and the body is physicaly exhausted. Everyone should try it sometime. Waking up to the song of birds is so much better than the buzzing of an alarm or th silence of a still sleeping house. Feeling and gaining energy from the power of a storm, even while hiding from it, makes me feel almost invincible. It's also a great weight loss program and less expensive than Jenny Craig (I've already lost 55 pounds). I find that I have more energy, more confidence in my decision making, more assertive, and am more alert than I have been in decades. I like the new me better than the old one and I don't want to slip back into old patterns and habits.

Yes, I will surely return.

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