April 2005

Friday 4/1/05
Start - Gooch Gap Shelter
Stop - Woody Gap
Miles traveled 5.9

Great crowd in the shelter last night. Nothing like a bit of rain to bring everyone in.

Just couldn't get started this morning. In fact, I had made up my mind that I wasn't going anywhere till the rain stopped. Finally changed my mind shortly after noon, packed up and left.

Today's battles were more mental than physical. I was worried about Emily and wondering if she got home all right and for the first time I had doubts about my ability to hike this hike. Unwelcome thoughts kept surfacing. Thoughts like, you know your leg can break in half at any moment or you know that if you get confused you will wander around these woods for centuries never to be heard from again and other similar thoughts. All the time I was aware that yet another thunderstorm is predicted for tonight.

Got to the road at Woody Gap and saw Chickenknee. He was waiting for the hostel shuttle. My choice was spend $15.00 for a roof out of the storm, a hot shower, and breakfast or have a free night under a nylon tarp in a thunderstorm followed by breakfast in the mud. Which would you choose? My answer will come tomorrow.

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Saturday 4/2/05
Start - Woody Gap
Stop - Neels Gap
Miles traveled 10.6 miles

Since I'm writing this I must have made several good decisions after making a bad one.

The day started with a great breakfast. I had those big Belgian Waffles, scrambled eggs, and grits. Actually, I wasn't impressed by the grits. Oh, I forgot the orange juice and coffee.

Staying a the hikerhostel, yes it is one word was a wise decision as major storms with extremely high winds roared through the night

The one mistake I made today was leaving the hostel. You will have to look up the wind chill factor that combines a 22 degree temperature with a 50 mph wind. I can only tell you how it feels, very, very cold. Colder than I was prepared for. By the time it took me to reconsider the hostel van had already left. It quickly became a survival situation. I realized that I had to start walking as standing in one spot meant freezing. As I hiked, I passed the remains of destroyed campsites. I can only imagine what happened to the owners of the shredded tents, tarps, and wind-scattered clothes.

I had intended to hike only 6. something miles to the Woods Hole shelter and I got there without taking a break. It took me about 4 hours to cover those miles and got there shortly after noon. A speed record for me. I quickly put on everything I had and made a cup of hot tea and then crawled into my sleeping bag to evaluate the situation. The wind just swirled and I couldn't find a corner to get out of it. Eventually I warmed and was able to start thinking more clearly. I realized that I couldn't stay there. While I was marginally warm I knew I could not handle an overnight temperature drop. I checked my book and determined that my best bet was to reach the hostel at Neels Gap about 4 miles away. The only obstacle was Blood Mountain, the highest point on the AT in Georgia. I packed up and headed out by 3:00. By 5:00, I was in the Walisi-yi Hostel

As we were leaving the hikerhostel and were being driven back to the trail head we passed a large stone mound and a historic marker. My camera was buried in my pack in the back of the van so I couldn't take a picture of it. The mound marks the burial site of a Cherokee princess. According to legend, she had been told by the witch of Gooch Mountain that she would have perpetual youth as long as she lived by a certain spring. A Creek warrior fell in love with this princess and stole her away. This kidnapping started the Creek Cherokee war culminating in the battle of Blood Mountain. Once away from her spring the princess began to age and eventually die. She was brought back to the spring and was buried. The Cherokee started the mound by adding a rock for good luck, a practice continued by the white settlers. When the highway was built it was diverted around the mound.

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Sunday 4/3/05
Start - Neels Gap
Stop - Neels Gap
Miles traveled 0 miles

Took a rest day to recover from yesterdays ordeal. T & T (a couple from Indianapolis who are helping Chickenknee get started) drove Chickenknee, Caroline, and myself to Blairsville for an all you can eat Southern style dinner at the Cookie Jar.

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Monday 4/4/05
Start - Neels Gap
Stop -Low Gap Shelter
Miles traveled 10.6 miles

Won't write too much tonight very tired. Spent most .of the day hiking with Caroline, a 60ish retiree from the EPA. She hails from Alexandria, VA. It was a hard day. Up and down Wolf Laurel Top, Cowrock Mtn, Wildcat Mtn, Poor Mtn, and Sheeprock Top.
Caroline and Gumby and Pokey, a couple from Minnesota found a small clearing at Hogpen Gap. I didn't feel like stopping and kept going and going.

Got to the shelter after dark and found it full. I'm tarping tonight

Had great weather all days.

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Tuesday 4/5/05
Start - Low Gap Shelter
Stop - Blue Mtn Shelter
Miles traveled 7.2 miles

And. what a 7.2 miles it was. Sunny and very hot. The heat is just drawing the energy from everyone. Got a mild sunburn. Gumby, Pokey, and Caroline caught up with me and we are all in the shelter together. Tomorrow promises to be an equally trying day.

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Wednesday 4/6/05
Start - Blue Mtn Shelter
Stop - Tray Mtn Shelter
Miles traveled 7.7 miles

Last night was an interesting and entertaining night. The shelter was full of mice. Normally they stayed up in the rafters but when spotlighted would become disoriented and fall to the sleeping platforms which caused a bit of scurrying and squealing. I thought I was with a bunch of high schoolers. After all mice generally don’t bite and if the do they only take small bites.

Spent the day outracing a thunderstorm. There are 8 of us in a shelter built for 7 and we think we have room for 2 more. Caroline is here as is Gumby and Pokey.

Not too many miles today but a tiring day none the less. Started with a 1000-ft descent from Blue Mt., followed by a 900-ft ascent and descent of Rocky Mtn, and finishing with a 1300-ft ascent of Tray Mtn. To put this into perspective assume that a story in a building is 10 ft high. Basically, this would be the same as starting on the 100th floor of a building and walking down the steps to the first floor, turning around and climbing to the 90th floor and back down. and then for good measure finishing by climbing to the 130th. Oh., I forgot to mention, try it carrying a 35 lb. bag.

Dinner was beef stew, the first Mountain House product I've had that I've been disappointed in

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Thursday 4/7/05
Start - Tray Mtn Shelter
Stop - Hiawassee, GA
Miles traveled 10.6

I can't say that I've looked at clouds from both sides now but I can say that I've spent an entire day walking through them and I didn't like it one bit. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

First the events of last evening. When I arrived at the shelter last evening the thought occurred to me that I
should hang my tarp across the opening. I just wish I had translated the thought into action. At around 2 am wind shifts brought a deluge of rain into the shelter. By the time the situation was brought under control everything was slightly damp.

Now back to the clouds. When I'm going uphill I use visual points of reference to assure myself that I am indeed making progress. When visibility is only 10 - 15 feet I have no sense of progress. The climbs just seem to go on forever. Today's walk, or should I say slog through mud as it was 2 to 4 inches thick most of the time, took me up and over Young Lick Knob (300 ft)., Round Top (560 ft), Kelly Knob (965 ft),. and Powell Mt ( up 200 and down 1,100) to Dicks Creek Gap where I was able to get a ride into Hiawassee. I didn't plan to go so far today but a damp sleeping bag and the promise of more thunderstorms, in fact there is one going on right now, prompted me to go the extra miles. I learned a new skill today, boot skiing. The downhills were so slick they couldn't be walked on normally. You just concentrate on balance and slide down. By the end of the day the bottom 6 inches of my gaiters had a 1/2 inch thick coating of mud

I will probably take tomorrow off to re supply, do laundry, and find out about getting this transmitted.

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Friday 4/8/05
Start - Hiawassee, GA
Stop - Hiawassee, GA
Miles traveled 0

Another rest day as I am still babying the knees. Overall, they feel very well, a little sore but so is nearly everyone else’s. I just want to avoid serious injury.

Tomorrow, I'll start the 40 mile leg to Franklin, NC. Hope to be there thirteenth or fourteenth where I may take another rest day. After that I will start pushing harder.

The main problem with rest days is that they are expensive. Let's see, Subway for dinner last night, McDonalds for breakfast, Dairy Queen for lunch, and who knows where for dinner.

Funny thing about zero days. I come into town exhausted, filthy, and starving and a rest day sounds really good. The next morning I clean and repair equipment and resupply. I then spend time sitting around. By mid afternoon when I'm clean and well rested I start thinking that I didn't need a rest day afterall.

I met Turtle today. Turtle is an injured hiker. He fell and damaged his knee and has been here for over a week. Actually, he works for Ron, the owner of the Inn. When he learned he couldn't continue for at least 2 to 3 weeks he was hired by Ron to do maintenance. He is currently repainting all the rooms. He says he is truly happy here and doesn't know what he will do when given the green light to hike again. He feels that this is the place he was meant to be.

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Saturday 4/9/05
Start - Hiawassee, GA
Stop - Muskrat Creek Shelter
Miles traveled 11.2

I am writing this at 9:30 pm. Late for a hiker but it's been a long day. Got up this morning and had the Continental Breakfast at the Hiawassee Inn and was shuttled to the trail at 9:00. By 1:00 I reached my planned stopping point Plumorchard Gap. The weather was nearly perfect but the weatherman promised only 3 good days and then more storms.

As I was sitting at Plumorchard, I was thinking about the good weather and the approaching storms. I reasoned that if I made a few more miles I would justify holing up and riding out the storm if it got too bad. So off I went and went and went. I crossed into North Carolina at 5:33

North Carolina greets the hiker rudely with 2 long steep uphill climbs followed by a moderately steep but long descent.

Aside from the fact that I got my first blister today the day was uneventful. The AT is a narrow mountain trail, with steep slopes up or down on either side. There are few places you can just stop. As I was starting down into a gap, I noticed my toes were rubbing together. By the time I found a place to stop to take care of the situation, perhaps 200 yards later, the blister had already developed. I had been feeling really smug about not having had any too.

The shelter was full and since the skies are clear I'm cowboy camping. Cowboy camping means finding a clearing large enough for your sleeping bag and bedding down.

The merits of zero days, days when you don't hike are debated. Without wading into the debate I will offer this observation. Unless my calculations are off, this is my 12th night out and I've taken 2 zero days. Last time, I reached this shelter on the 12th night and I didn't have any days off. It appears that a well-timed rest day doesn't cost any time at all.

A few closing thoughts on Georgia. The forest changed greatly since the last time I was here. Hurricane Opal devastated much of the forest. What wasn't destroyed by the hurricane was heavily damaged by an ice storm earlier this year. Trail Maintainers have done a wonderful job keeping the trail open but saddened me to see the destroyed forest

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Sunday 4/10/05
Start - Muskrat Creek Shelter
Stop - Winding Stair Gap
Miles traveled 14.2
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The, biggest day yet. Ron Haven, of the Haven Motel, shuttles hikers back to Winding Stair Gap at 9:00 am. I figured that if I was there by 9 I would be able to get a ride into town with him. Even though I only went a little more than 14 miles only 8 or so was on the AT. The remaining miles were on the Kimberling Creek Trail. About 4 miles after Muskrat Creek the AT turns south and makes a giant fishhook. The Kimberling Creek Trail meets the AT at that turning point and runs North by Northeast.

By taking this shortcut I moved 28.4 miles up the trail. I feel OK doing this because it was not my intention to repeat every step I had already done. I started at the beginning to condition myself for the more difficult parts ahead.
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The scenery on this particular hike was fabulous. Lots of white water, waterfalls, and creek walking. I even remembered to take pictures. That is till my camera battery died.

I'm cowboy camping again tonight. I found a giant boulder about 100 ft back from the highway. The rock completely screened me from the road and so I bedded down.

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Monday 4/11/05
Start -Winding Stair Gap
Stop - Franklin, NC
Miles traveled 0

Franklin was known by the Cherokee as Nikwasi and is believed by them to be the place their ancestors originated at the beginning of time.

This was a planned stop and I needed to make it for resupply purposes. I left Hiawasse with a 4-day food supply, leaving me with a 2-day supply when I arrived. I need 6 days of supplies to get me through the next leg. I also wanted to pick up another camera battery.

Franklin is a nice town but spread out. It took 2 hours to walk to the grocery and K-Mart and back. I got directions to the laundry. They were, '' Go down this street to the second light and turn right.'' I looked down the street and couldn't even see the first light.
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Now for a little bit about meals. Restaurants are great and inexpensive. In Hiawasse, I ate at the Georgia Mountain Restaurant. I got the same meal that I pay 8.99 at Cracker Barrel for only 4.50. In Franklin I had the buffet at Prime Steak and Buffet. There were so many choices I could stay for 3 days and not sample them all. The buffet any beverage was only 7 dollars.

In spite of all this bounty, I do have 1 minor complaint. Everyone wants to give me senior prices.

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Tuesday 4/12/05
Start -Franklin, NC
Stop - Siler Bald Shelter
Miles traveled 3.7

First I want to apologize for the atrocious spelling in the previous entries. The are written on a PDA and Palm made subtle changes in the graffiti used. These changes coupled with the small font size of the word to go software that made it impossible to tell if the character produced was the character intended caused quite a few new English words to be created. I've since learned how to increase the font size. Now I can see what I'm writing. I've also discovered that I have a spell checker. These steps should resolve most problems.

It was very tempting to stay in town this morning. The weather report called for heavy rains and storms. However, staying in towns cost money so I decided to move on.

Made it here just as the skies opened up. How hard is it raining? I put a 1-gallon plastic ice cream bucket outside and it filled in 20 minutes. The rain, coupled with 40 degree temperature and high wind speed made for ideal hypothermia conditions. I decided to stop while I was still reasonably dry. At least I'm dry and out of the wind.

It will however, make for a long day tomorrow. Well. well what do you know the sun came out at 7:10.

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Wednesday 4/13/05
Start -Siler Bald Shelter
Stop - Cold Spring Shelter
Miles traveled 12.1

Last night the storms rolled in. It was a terrific storm. There have been more severe storms but it was the worst I have ever experienced. The lightening display put any fireworks program to shame and the thunder shook the shelter. It rained and hailed outside and rained mice inside. I don't know what made them so unstable but they kept falling off the rafters. A couple even ended up inside sleeping bags. It was anything but a peaceful night.

Today' s hike was mostly a uphill struggle. Once again I was slogging through mud that was at times 8 inches deep. I ran out of gas about 1/3 the way up Wayah Bald. It walk 10 steps and stop. Frasier Fir who was day hiking passed me as he was coming from the top. He offered me 3 York Peppermint Patties. I ate 2 and talk about jet fuel I charged right on to the top in practically no time at all. Fog and mist obscured the normally fantastic views found on this stretch.

It was raining when I arrived at a full shelter. So I'm tarping tonight.

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Thursday 4/14/05
Start -Cold Spring Shelter
Stop - A. Rufus Morgan Shelter
Miles traveled 10.7

I am writing this at 9:50, late and way beyond my regular bedtime but I didn't arrive till after 9.

I don't know whether I'm not eating enough, or the 2nd double digit day in a row, or the events of last night but I didn't seem to have any energy today.

When I closed last night, it was raining and I was going to tarp. Well the tarp worked great. Everything under it stayed dry. The main problem I had was that I couldn't manage to stay under it. Flat is a relative term and I was on the flattest spot I could find. It still was on a slight slope and I kept sliding out from under the tarp and into the rain.

The main feature of today's hike was the descent into Nantahala Gorge, a descent of 2,300 ft over 4 miles. It took me more than 5 hours. I don't have any idea how I could possibly have made it last tlme out. There was one point that I was ready to throw in the towel and walk back to Georgia. A landslide wiped out a 10-14 ft section of trail and I had to traverse the steep slope across a layer of slippery mud. I just knew I couldn't cross that section and stood there surveying the situation for more than a half hour. I finally reasoned that it wasn't as bad as it looked since at least 2 dozen people crossed the area today. So after taking a couple of deep breaths I crossed the area.

Nantahala is a Cherokee word meaning land of the noon day sun. The gorge walls are so steep and the gorge is so deep and narrow that the only time it gets direct sunlight is at noon.

Arrived at the shelter to find Caroline and Brewmaster to be the only occupants.

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Friday 4/15/05
Start - A. Rufus Morgan Shelter
Stop - Campsite near Grassy Gap
Miles traveed 3.3

Not many miles today. I planned to go further but things don't always work as planned. Left the shelter and made it to the Nantahala Outdoor Center when I realized I didn't have my camera. I had left it at the shelter 7/10s of a mile back and 500 ft up. I went back to get the camera and it was still there. I then went to the NOC a second time. Spent some time at the outfitter looking for a new Platypus bite valve (no luck) and some additional tent stakes (success). Decided to have a shower, lunch, and a laundry visit. Couldn't seem to tear myself away till after 2.

Spent the rest of the afternoon walking uphill. Camping with Caroline, Gumby, Pokey, Dandy Llon (a Brit), Grasshopper, and Hitman.

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Saturday 4/16/05
Start - Campsite near Grassy Gap
Stop - Campsite in Locust Cove Gap
Miles traveled 8

Probably my worst day attitude-wise. Started out OK when I was awakened at about 5:30 by a symphony of owls. It was hauntingly beautiful listening to them call back and forth. I can't even guess how many were involved.

Things quickly soured with the monstrous climb up Swim Bald. Started up at 8 o'clock and didn't reach the top till well after noon. As I was going up I started fantasizing about the reception committee, brass band, and champagne fountains at the top. As I struggled up the Bald I became convinced that my fantasy was a reality. I finally reached the top and stopped in absolute shock. There was no reception committee, no band, and no champagne. There was not even any water. The only thing was a small downhill slope as the trail meandered down the other side. I couldn’t believe it. I just sat there, convinced that the reception committee was late. When I finally decided that they weren’t coming or worse had already left because I took so long to get to the top I picked up my pack and started down. This was followed by the relatively small 500 ft climb up Cheoah Bald. The 2 climbs really took the starch out of me. And it was hot too.

All day I've been thinking of soft beds, clean sheets, air conditioning, water you don't, have to treat, and good food. If a magic genie had appeared I may very well had wished myself home.

These past 2 days were tough and are the reason I started from the beginning, as I am certain I would not have made it this far without the prior 2 1/2 weeks of conditioning.

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Sunday 4/17/05
Start - Campsite in Locust Cove Gap
Stop - Cable Gap Shelter
Miles traveled 11.6

This morning someone was examining the debris that accumulated in his water bottle. He figured that if he came back with a gold pan he would, within a week, have enough money to pay for the trip.
I'm beginning to detect a pattern here. Apparently I'm a slow starter but I finish strong. No matter how early I start I only manage about 1/2 a mile an hour or so till mid afternoon when I manage to kick it up to1 1/2 - 2mph. Perhaps I should sleep till noon.

At any rate, in another 7 miles I will be through the Nantahala Wilderness, considered by many to be the toughest 80 miles in the Southern Appalachians.

Today's hike was characterized by a lot of very steep ups and downs.
Most were 500 ft (elevation wise)or less but the angle came close to 60 degrees.

I was astounded by the numbers of flowers around. I probably could have shot a whole roll of film and not have gotten one of each type. Cowboy camping by a stream. The sound is very calming. The moon on the other hand is almost bright enough to read by.

Tomorrow, on to Fontana Dam the gateway to the Smokies.

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Monday 4/18/05
Start - Cable Gap Shelter
Stop - Fontana Dam, NC
Miles traveled 6.9

The Nantahala just refused to give up its grip. It may be the accumulated fatigue from the proceeding days or it may have been frustration caused by my desire to reach Fontana Dam but these were very tough miles. It was hot too. The trail designers seemed to take delight in running the route over every little knob and hump possible. It seemed a cruel and heartless thing for them to do.

While hiking today, I thought I heard a helicopter nearby. I looked all around and couldn't spot it. The sound got closer but I still couldn't spot it. You can imagine my surprise when it pulled up next to me. It had been below me the entire time.

However, I finally made it and am planning a badly needed rest day.

162.9 total miles completed. Next up, crossing the length of the Smokies.

The device that I write these entries on uses an internal rechargeable battery. With entries of this length a charge lasts about 6 days. I anticipate being able to recharge every 8-10 days. Consequently future entries will have to be shorter.

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Tuesday 4/19/05
Start - Fontana Dam, NC
Stop - Fontana Dam, NC
Miles travelled 0

Took badly need rest day with Mary Rose, Ellen, and Andrew who came down to visit.

Ate plenty of food and drank lots of water. Did laundry and resupplied. We went to a free mountain/bluegrass/gospel/country music concert.

Tomorrow, I cross into Tennessee and enter the Smokies.

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Wednesday 4/20/05
Start - Fontana Dam, NC
Stop - Mollies Ridge Shelter
Miles travelled 11

It was hard saying good-bye again but Mary Rose had to get on back to Louisville and I suspect that Andrew and Ellen were eager to get back.

Ellen drove my pack over Fontana Dam to the end of the paved road while Mary Rose and I walked along.

After they left, I became a bit bewildered. It all started with a deer. When I saw the deer I wanted a picture. Whenever I tried to get close enough the deer would move. I finally got within 10 feet and got the picture. I then realized I was no longer on the trail. After about 45 minutes of searching I found it.

Hiking wise the main event was the long steep climb up Shukstack. A ridge runner was on top congratulating everyone for completing the longest, steepest climb in the Park.

Got a heroes welcome and a hug from Grasshopper when I arrived at the shelter because I was the 15th person to show up. SMNP regulations state that hikers must sleep in shelters unless they are full. They are designed to hold 14. When I arrived someone became eligible to camp outside. Nearly everyone wanted to. You don't get a restful sleep in a full shelter.

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Thursday 4/21/05
Start - Mollies Ridge Shelter
Stop - Derrick Knob Shelter
Miles travelled 11.7

Long day, rough trail, too tired to write. Today's featured climbs were Rocky Top (yes, the one in the song) and Thunderhead. Rocky Top was easy but Thunderhead was a killer. Arrived late to a full shelter so I'm tarping.

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Friday 4/22/05
Start - Derrick Knob Shelter
Stop - Double Spring Shelter
Miles travelled 7

Not too many miles today but the weather made it a marathon. It was cold, windy and rainy. When I tried to rest I froze.

I planned a short day today because tomorrow will be a long 14 mile day with a climb up and over Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the AT. A day hiker told me that snow is being forcast for tomorrow.

A sad note. I fear we lost Carolyn today. She started about a half hour before I did. About an hour into the hike I passed her as she was going back to Derrick Bald. She had an escort of 6 hikers and a splinted arm in a sling. She slipped and suspected that she had broken her arm. We started on the same day and spent practically every night together at the same shelter or campsite. I'll miss her greatly.

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Saturday 4/23/05
Start - Double Spring Shelter
Stop - Newfound Gap
Miles travelled 10.8

Actually I'm sitting in Gatlinburg, TN. The first time in a couple of days that I know what state I'm in. The trail runs right along the TN/NC border and I cross from state to state several times each day. I will continue to follow the border to for the next few weeks.

Now, what am I doing in Gatlinburg, the last place I expected to be.

When I woke this morning it was cold and raining. The temperature kept dropping as the day went by. When I went over Clingmans Dome it was extremely cold and the rain turned to snow. By Newfound Gap I had chips of ice floating in my water bottle and heard that the overnight temperature was expected to be near zero.

As I was trying to decide whether to try for the next shelter or stay in the gap and spend the night in a marginally heated restroom a van with a family in it pulls up to me, and the driver asked if I wanted a ride into town.

Trail Lore speaks of Angels, people who just pop up and offer advice and or help when needed. This particular offer was too good to refuse and so here I am.

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Sunday/Monday 4/24/05-4/25
Start -Newfound Gap
Stop - Pecks Corner Shelter
Miles travelled 10.4

This is a combined entry because it was too cold to write last night. I was afraid that the extreme cold would damage the PDA if I tried to use it. I couldn't get out of Gatlinburg till late Sunday because the park service closed the roads into the park till late afternoon.

I had planned to just stay in Gatlinburg until I heard the trail and weather report. Powder snow and slush freezing to ice overnight.

I figured I'd rather climb out of the gap in snow than ice and worry about ice on today's relatively easy section. Plan worked great for Sunday but Monday's walk in the park was a real ordeal. I am mentally, emotionally, and physically exhausted. The promised freeze developed and everything was under a thick coating of ice.

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Tuesday 4/26/05
Start -Pecks Corner Shelter
Stop - Tri Corner Knob Shelter
Miles travelled 5

Another short but brutal day. The temperature hovered in the mid-thirties and the wind was strong enough to spin me around. The trail up and down Mts Sequoia and Chapman were ice chutes.

I stopped here for lunch and checked my maps and found I had another 5 to 6 miles to go before I was below snow line. Decided to wimp out and stay here to live and hike another day.

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Wednesday 4/27/05
Start -Tri Corner Knob Shelter
Stop - Cosby Knob Shelter
Miles travelled 7.7

At last I'm below snow line. The days hike was marred by my first slip and it didn't even happen on the trail. I planned an early start and was up by 6:30. My feet went out from under me as I was on the way to the privy. Came down right on my back. It sent shock waves through my entire body. To add insult to injury, I ended up in the spring and could only lay there while the ice cold water soaked my clothes. Once I assured my shelter mates that nothing seemed to be broken they tried to help me up. The pain was unbearable and I told them to leave me alone. After about 10 minutes I was able to get to my feet and get back into my sleeping bag. The best way to dry wet clothes in bad weather is to climb in the bag and let the trapped body heat dry them. It took 5 hours in the bag and 4 Advil before I could start getting ready to leave. During that time I do believe that I would have accepted an offer to be evacuated out.

Once I got started, the back loosened up some and went from painful to uncomfortable.

The climbs up Mt Sequoia and Mt. Chapman were very difficult because of accumulated ice and snow. The descent from Mt Chapman was even worse. The trail was just an icy chute. It was stil extremely cold with strong winds.

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Thursday 4/28/05
Start -Cosby Knob Shelter
Stop - Standing Bear Farm
Miles travelled 10.4

At last I'm out of the Smokies. Seems that most of the hikers are glad to leave them behind. They are cold and wet. I have been hiking through precipitation, either in the from of rain, show, hail, freezing rain, or sleet for 8 consecutive days. Worse, hiking in the park is regulated by virtue of the requirement that hikers stay in shelters overnight. It became frustrating to stop at 2 or 3 in the afternoon only because you know you won't make it to the next shelter by dark.

I'm planning to take a few days rest to let my back, which is still very sore.

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Friday 4/29/05
Start - Standing Bear Farm
Stop - Louisville, KY
Miles travelled 0

I’m back home for a few days. When I called to say that I was going to take a few days off my family was more than eager to come and retrieve me so that I could spend time with them. It’s nice to know that I’m liked at home. The time will not be completely wasted. I’ve covered a total of 237.3 miles and it’s time to thoroughly dry out, clean, and repair equipment. These are chores I was planning to do anyway albeit another 30 or so miles up the trail. I don’t think the back injury is severe. It’s just that it takes 2 to 3 hours in the morning to loosen up so that I could move comfortably and I find that it starts cramping after only 30-45 minutes of walking and I have to stop for 15-20 minutes to stretch it out again. I can’t cover much territory at that rate. I think it just needs a few days of rest and it will be back to normal. Then I will have to find a way back. The family that was eager to have me back, may not be so eager to see me leave again.

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Saturday 4/30/05

Start - Louisville, KY
Stop - Louisville, KY
Miles travelled 0

I just wanted to take the time to explain routine trail life. It really is life in the slow lane.

The day usually starts sometime between 7 and 8 when I finally get out of my sleeping bag. I am usually at a campsite or a trail shelter with between 2 and 12 other people. I have a breakfast of either instant oatmeal or a milk and cereal bar and start packing up my gear. I'm usually ready to start by about 9. This pattern will probably change as the weather warms. I'm not a fast hiker and I take frequent breaks. By noon most of my previous nights camp mates have long passed me and a far ahead and I spend most of the early afternoon hiking alone seeing few if any people. Lunch is usually a granola bar, cheese and crackers, and a foil envelope of tuna. I have no official designated lunch time. The lunch items are eaten in small quantities throughout the course of the morning and afternoon. At the first break I may have 2 bites of a granola bar and put the rest away for later. Next break may be 2 crackers with cheese, saving the rest for later and so on.

By mid-afternoon I start seeing people again as other groups of hikers overtake me. These are generally the real strong hikers who doe 15 to 20 miles per day. By 5 or 6 in the evening I find that I have caught up with the group that I camped with the night before and I stop for the night. The only difference between they and I are that they reached that point a few hours earlier. I have a quick dinner of a lipton pasta or rice side dish or macaroni and cheese or ramen noodles or sometimes a freeze dried meal and brush my teeth. I'm usually in my sleeping bag by 7 or so, not because I'm tired but because I'm cold. On real cold short days I'm sometimes in the bag by 4 or so. We usually lay around, in our bags sharing stories, learning more about each other and gradually drifting off to sleep. By 8:30 or so nearly everyone is asleep.

The pattern repeats the next day and basically doesn't change regardless of weather unless the weather is real severe.

I generally go into town once a week to re supply and get one or 2 decent meals before hitting the trail again. These re supply stops generally take a full day. The town may be 10 or so miles from the trail head. Once there I check at the post office for mail and supplies sent from home, find a hostel or inexpensive motel where I can take a shower, go to the laundry and wash clothes, check out one of the restaurants, go to the grocery and by supplies for the next leg, check out another restaurant, go back to the motel or hostel, check and repair equipment, check the long range weather forecast, go to sleep. I don't know why I bother getting the weather forcast. I figure it is right about 50 percent of the time. When the forcast is fro rain it rains. When the forcast calls for a clear day, it still rains. The next morning I have a final breakfast and make my way back to the trail head. Transportation to and from towns is frequently accomplished by hostel or motel shuttle. They don't necessarily come out to pick you up but they return hikers to the trail head at pre determined times and if you happen to be there at that time they will usually bring you back into town, hoping of course that you will stay at their place for the night.

Shared experiences create strong social bonds and the strangers you start hiking with quickly become acquaintances, then friends, and finally family. The strange thing is that we frequently don't know each others real names. Trail names are a tradition and a custom on the trail. Those that don't have one are quickly given one. The name usually has a story behind it at reveals some traits or characteristics about the individual. Gray Ghost is rarely seen through the day as he is slow and is far behind. He frequently shows up at camp after everyone is asleep and magically appears in the morning. When seen he is quiet during the day but frequently makes strange, eerie noises at night. It's an old name given to me by the scouts many years ago. It still fits so it has stuck. Brewmaster, Goat, Stovepipe, Grasshopper, Gumby, and Pokey and many others each have stories behind their names. We make for a strange crew.