Espiritu Santo Revisited
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We yelled and yelled - no answer. Dot was getting very nervous. He might be overcome with the heat. The guide said, "Steve will be alright - old man we worry about," - I guess he meant because of the heat. Finally, Steve showed up and said, "Guess what I found up on top of that hill over there?" Sam said, "The flag pole base." Steve said yes, so we all climbed that long hill and everything looked right to Sam then. We had been going to the wrong hill. The flagpole base had been uprooted and was broken into several pieces, but we could see the lettering, CAMP ELROD - 1943. Mission accomplished! Steve said, "They say war is Hell, but what a view from here." The ocean and beaches were spectacular.

Sam found the Photo Lab foundation among other foundations, some of which he couldn't identify. His biggest thrill was finding the hole he had dug 56 years ago for the lab chemical water to run into. We looked down this caved-in hole, and there was one of the 50 gallon drums he had placed there and we could see the holes he had chiseled in the sides.

Sam also located the banyan tree, pictured below. The movie screen sat a little to the right of this tree. Movies were among the few entertainments available in 1943.

We were so worn out from the heat and walking that we didn't stay as long as we would have if we had found it sooner. We'd already spent two days finding the camp, but we probably saw enough.

It is ironic - the Japanese have a 50 year lease on this land where Camp Elrod was located. They raise alot of cattle there and on other land at Santo. We met the Japanese Managing Director of cattle operations for all of Santo. He was on the same plane that we took back to Port Vila. Steve got him on video. We shook hands with him when we got off the plane. He said Sam was lucky to be on Santo in 1943 - not in the Solomons and elsewhere - we knew that! The Japanese manager seemed like a very nice person. We met his wife also. They make corned beef from the cattle.

Interesting facts:

Santo is approximately 1500 miles N/NW of Auckland, New Zealand.

The US dollar was worth $1.29 in Vanuatu.

The US dollar was worth $1.86 in New Zealand.

Our guides on Santo charged 8000 Vatu - $70 or so a day.

Hotel Santo charged 9600 Vatu per room - around $75 a night.

December 26, Saturday - Hired Kenneth, a guide with a new Toyota van or bus that was big. We went to Champagne Beach which is 30 miles or so away - beautiful bubbly water. The guide book says this is caused by a river coming into the ocean - what a trip! Bumpy roads again! Kenneth kept worrying about his hub caps coming off. He did lose one finally; we backtracked and Steve saw it in the weeds. Sam suggested prying the springs out a little - and bingo - the hub caps stayed on.

Kenneth took us to his parents' home - very primitive - we just had to trust these people as we were outnumbered. They were the gentlest people I have ever been around - we enjoyed their company. We also went to a copra drier location and toured it. We tried to see a vanilla plantation, but it was closed for the holidays.

December 27, Sunday - Left Santo, flew back to Port Vila (150 miles), then took another small plane to Tanna for 2 days. Beautiful small island. We stayed in grass huts - electric was to be on 18 hours a day, but it was off much more that that 6 hours. We really enjoyed the island though. We visited a primitive village over more bumpy roads - the natives put on a dance for us. We toured their homes - dirt floors - very primitive. Steve and Pat went to the volcano at Mt. Yasur that second night. Sam and Dot passed on that as it was raining and the roads were rougher than to the village, someone said. It was quite a sight to see, but they were glad we didn't go - the other van that went had 2 flat tires so they borrowed their spare tire - then left them at the volcano 30 miles from anywhere -- they did make it back, but it wasn't the most relaxing evening! The first night we were there Steve got us up at 2:00 AM to see the stars. It was the most beautiful view we've ever seen - different from the northern hemisphere. With no electricity - it was really dark which helped. We saw the Southern Cross. The sky looked like velvet with alot of sparkling stars.

December 29, Tuesday - We left Tanna - small plane - it stopped on 2 small islands before we reached Port Vila. One was just a grass airstrip. The whole island came out to see the plane, it seemed! We got the big plane at Port Vila, flew back to Auckland, NZ. Had to really rush to make the plane to Christchurch on the South Island, NZ. When we came out of the airport at Christchurch, it had rained and there was the most beautiful rainbow we ever saw - the complete arch right in front of us. It looked like we could drive to either end of it. Christchurch is an English-looking city with many beautiful buildings and churches. We stayed overnight there.

South Island was an enjoyable experience. Our 2 favorites: Milford Sound with the boat cruise and the small plane ride over the Glacier Mountains - and the glacier at Franz Josef. We walked 3 miles to be able to put our hands on the fastest moving glacier of the world. It is moving about an inch an hour. The Trans Alpine train ride back to Christchurch from the mountains to the Canterbury plains was also awesome.

January 3, 1999, Monday - Flew back to Auckland, NZ to catch the 8:15 PM plane to L.A. We were lucky to get straight through the winter weather in Chicago and Ohio. Glad to be home, but what a trip!! We certainly appreciated the company of our son, Steve, and his wife, Pat, on this trip.

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