Rear Turn Signal Replacement:
This page and the Leatherlyke bag page really go together. When I bought the LL bags, I bought the larger cross-country model 320 because I wanted the traditional look and larger capacity. Due to the length of the larger bag, the stock turn signal relocated to the license plate bracket supplied when I installed the smaller LL bags a few years ago interfered with the bags. They had to be relocated or replaced. I decided to go with the bullet turn signals by Kuryakyn shown below. I thought about using the LL license plate bracket but it just didn't look right and the signals still stuck out too far and hit the bag. The only option was to drill a hole in the fender and locate the lights near the rear of the fender.
I ended up taking the fender off the bike and rewiring all the lights. I disconnected all the bullet connectors for the lights at the harness under the seat, making sure to note their positions! In the end it simplified the wiring since I did not have to run the ground wires for the turn signals to the back. The bullet signals come with one positive wire as shown below and are grounded via the signal housing. I wasn't sure the fender is grounded but tested it and it worked once the bolts holding the fender to the fender rails are installed. I cut the two ground wires for the turn signals to about 6" long and grounded them to one of the bolts under the seat. After drilling and installing the lights, the signal wires are routed behind the brake light and out the same opening as the brake light wires and along the same route under the seat to the harness. I therefore eliminated the two conduit clamps shown on the LL page. Made a much neater job..
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These are the lights I installed, though they also make others with strut mounts which may work although it MAY require a second hole to be drilled. I don't know that for sure.
Silver Bullet Kit with Short Fender Strut Mounts
Silver Bullet Kit with Long Fender Strut Mounts for Dyna
There is just enough room at the location shown above where you can fit the bolt between the back of the brake light and the stiffner plate/license plate bracket. Some eyeballing will let you located that fairly easily for the first hole. For the other side, I took a couple of measurements off the first hole and located the other hole that way. They came out pretty darn close and I can't see any misalignment.
I drilled a 3/8" hole with successively larger bits in about 5 stages.
The finished look. I did scrape off the paint on the inside around each hole to make sure that the tooth star washer has good contact with the metal of the fender. The hollow bolts that comes with the signals is about 2" long which is too long on purpose. I ended up cutting it approximately in half..
With the bags, there is about 1/4" clearance between the bags and the signals.
I bought the Kuryakyn Rear Run-Turn-Brake signal kit to get some more lights at the back and it installed without problems. I replaced the lenses with the red glass and they are now on all the time as well as functioning as brake lights and turn signals. I had to take off the back-off alarm, though, as there was some interference between the kit and the back-off. See also the Front Bullet Signals I installed at the same time.
This is the kit. You won't need the load equalizer in the lower part of the picture if using the halogen lights. The wires are clearly marked and it just takes some time to solder all the connections and tuck away the wires under the seat.
The yellow and green wires in the lower left are the ground wires for the turn signals which you won't have to run to the signals since they are grounded thru the housing. Means less wires to run to the rear lights. Wiring is very simple. The two green wires from the turn signals are the grounds. Just keep track of what goes where in the harness, you'll be removing all the wires going to the rear lights. Connect to the kit's wires as marked. Get some bullet connectors and attach them to 2" pieces of wire. Solder those and heat shrink them to the harness side of the kit. Solder the light wires to the light side and you're good to go. I first loosely connected everything to make sure it worked. BE CAREFUL that the wires don't touch. It cost me the front kit (see the front signal mod section).
This wiring diagram should make it easy.
The halogens are very bright, even in daylight.
While I was at it, I also changed the bezels for the visored ones.
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