Front Turn Signal Replacement:

I finally got around to trying this because it's been bugging me for a while.  I have an NC lightbar and after I put on the rear Kuryakyn bullet turn signals I wanted some on the front too.  Studying the Kury catalog, I always thought the Large Universal Bullet turnsignals and saddle mount they sell should fit the NC lightbar because I think NC makes the lightbars for the HD cruisers (they don't list them for anything but the HD's but it sure looked like it they would fit).  I even took some measurements on a Harley and the bolt spacing seemed to match.  Well, the long and short is, I was right.  I ordered the large Bullet lights and saddle mount and they fit perfectly.  Below are the steps I went through to get them to work (sort of, anyway).

Halogen Universal Silver Bullet Kits with 3/8"-16 Hollow Mounting Bolt
The power wire exits the light through the mounting bolt. The light is grounded through its mount.
Universal Silver Bullets can be installed just about anywhere. They include minimal mounting hardware, but with a little ingenuity, they will fill the bill for many applications. Our Mounting Kit and P-Clamps are great for fender and fork applications.

Halogen kits include 35 watt bulbs with Red, Amber, and Clear lenses.

Small Silver Bullets measure 2-7/8"x1-5/8"
Large Silver Bullets measure 4"x2-5/16"

Silver Bullet Saddle Mounts
These mounts allow you to install Large Silver Bullets in place of stock turn signals on Dressers, Road Kings and FLSTC/N models. Sorry, Small Silver Bullets are not compatible with these mounts. IMPORTANT: Requires Large Silver Bullets with a 3/8"-16 threaded hole, hollow mounting bolts, and wire that exits through the mounting hole.

 


Front Run-Turn Controller
Another innovative design, this module plugs into the stock wiring harness and makes single filament custom lights function as running lights and turn signals. It works great with our Halogen Silver Bullets! Fits '96-'03 Softails, '97-'03 Dynas/Dressers/Road Kings and '97-'03 Sportsters. One controller required per pair of lights.

 

 

 

 

 

These are the parts I ordered.  I got the controller kits for both rear and front from Cruisercustomizing and the lights and saddle mounts from J&P cycles.  The lights from J&P came with visored bezels but they are the wrong ones for this installation so I will get the right ones and sell the others.  Below are some pics of the installation.

 

First the wiring.  If installed your NC lightbar already, you'll have three wires going back to under the tank from each light.  One wire from the spot light and two from the turn signals, one for the running light and one for the turn signal.  Both are grounded via the bar. During installation of the lightbar you should have cut off the green ground wire to each turn signal somewhere under the tank since it wasn't needed.  You'll need to remove the tank and left neck cover to get at the wires going to each side. You'll most likely have sheathed them or taped them and fed them thru the bar to each light.  You can replace the turn signals without having to take off the spot light.  Cut the wires near the neck cover so you can splice the spot light power feed again later.  You should have left enough slack in the wire during the original installation to do this.  Feed the bundle back thru the light bar to each light and remove any sheathing or tape to expose the individual wires.  Now it's time to replace the turn signals.

Assemble the lights and saddle mounts  You can see where the bezels are wrong but they do also come with just plain round ones.

Remove each turn signal by removing the two allen bolts holding the turn signal.  You'll have to grind down an allen key because the mounting bracket is close to one of them and you won't get a regular one in there to remove the bolt.

Attach the bullet lights using the same allen bolts.  You'll have two wires now.  The power lead for the spot and the black one for the turn signal.  Retape them or sheath them,whatever your preference, and feed them back thru the lightbar to the connection you cut previously.  Make sure you leave enough slack for turning the handle bars, etc.  The little black tie-wraps will make a neat job of hiding and securing the wires.

Now for the no-so-fun part.  I hooked up the run-turn signal kit as instructed and nothing...burn out a fuse.  Must have had some wires touching.  Got everything right and tried again but no turn signal.  Finally figured out that the turn signal minder was messing things up and replaced it with the stock turn signal relay.  (too many gismos...LOL).  This worked but I now had both turn signals flashing and no rear turn signals.  I had already installed the run-turn-brake kit on the rear signals as described under the rear turn signal mod section.  Tried rewiring a couple of more times and ...... finally smoke was coming out of the front kit.  Time to quit.  I think the two turn signal kits don't function together.  Luckily I didn't fry the rear kit.  I decided that I wanted the rear running lights rather than the front since at the front I had the spot lights and use the front bullets as turn signals only.  Also, I didn't want to remove the rear kit just to see if the front kit would work on it's own.  So I just soldered the black turn signal wire to the lightblue and orange wires from the harness which are the turn signal wires and also reinstalled the turn signal minder.  So, I didn't use the orange/white and light blue/white wires at all (in addition to the green grounds) and everything worked perfectly.  If anyone does this or has the front kit (or both for that matter) installed and working, I'd love to know.  Maybe I'll give it another try.

The front bullet turn signals are very bright even in daylight and much superior to the NC signals.  Pity I can't have them as running lights too.

 

Back to Home Page