I was bit by the speaker building bug after reading a book by David Weems which I picked up at a local Radio Shack store.  I purchased a pair of 8" speakers and soft dome tweeters from them and built my first set of speakers (for my sister).  I even wound my own coils!  I've since built car subwoofers, home subwoofers and other speakers.  The majority of my projects have involved buyout drivers or one of a kind drivers which is why you generally won't find any specific construction procedures.  How can you build my speakers if you can't get the drivers?  :-)  Anyway, this page highlights my projects so far.

1. This is a second set of speakers for my sister using some PE buyout 5 1/4" drivers and audax tweeters.
2. This was a previous surround speakers I made 2 front and 2 rear for an old 7-channel Yamaha processor - don't laugh, they were only temporary; hence quick construction using 3/8" plywood, but they were not bad sounding in the least.
3. Here is a previous center channel using an Eminence 10" woofer and a Klipsch tweeter.  It had to be efficient because there was only 15 watts from the center channel amp in the old processor.
4. I re-built some Sonance in-walls using some buyout 6 1/2" AR woofers and some Audax tweeters.
   
5. Of course, my greatest project is my subwoofer (and I built the drivers, too!).
6. I built my current center channel speaker using some Eton drivers I bought from McJerry, and some HiVi Rt2 tweeters from Speaker City.
7. My new surrounds use the same Etons and the same Hi-Vi Rt2 tweeters.  They were built only 3 1/2" deep because they will eventually be built into the walls (if I ever get them up).  These latest home theater center and surrounds blend much better with my Magnepan IIc's I bought off E-bay.
   
8. My in-floor Subwoofer for my upstairs in-wall speakers.  It is a PE buyout Ultimate woofer.  Actually, I've since replaced it with a PE buyout Pioneer driver (seen in the picture with the Walsh drivers) because one of my dad's EPI T/E320 speaker woofers had a rotted surround.  The two Ultimate drivers I had were a perfect match.  I used Audua SpeakerWorkshop to check the parameters of his one remaining good woofer against the Ultimates.  The main difference was the sensitivity of the Ultimates were about 0.5 dB louder.  Otherwise, they were a nearly perfect match!  The model number is PW1018.  Heck, they may even sound a bit better - more oomph, but still very clean sounding.
   
9. I've also just completed a center channel speaker for my dad using the little Pioneer NSB's from Parts Express, and an old Audax tweeter.  The cabinet was also a PE buyout.  Hmmm...  I detect a pattern of buyout drivers.  :-)
10. I just finished another subwoofer project for my dad using a factory reconditioned Titanic 1200.  It appears to be fairly flat to 25 Hz or 30 Hz, but it will still produce 16 Hz and 20 Hz tones if you use the full range input on the amp.  By the way, the amp is a150 watt (IIRC) BIC Venturi sub amp reconditioned by Aaron Hammett of Envision Electronics.  This thing works beautifully in full range mode for music.  However, if your main speakers are loud, this may not be enough for movies.  Anyway, if you see them on ebay, pick one up - It's an excellent deal!  Here is another pic.  This is a quick graph of frequency response with my sub thrown in for comparison.  I used pure sine waves instead of warbled, so the upper end of the graphs are suspect.  Not only that, but apparently I got a 60 Hz standing wave null at the measurement location with my subwoofer which is in a different location than the Titanic.  I noticed the deepest bass didn't stand out like it does with my sub, and as you can see from the graph, my sub has about 10 dB more output between 16 and 25 Hz.  Trust me, it is a big difference.  Luckily, most music doesn't show a big difference since most music is above 30 Hz.  However, I can't hear that first dinosaur footstep on Jurassic Lunch, though the second one comes in okay.
11. I built speakers into my wife's digital piano.  They were the AR woofers I used in my old surrounds, and the buyout meilloon (sp?) tweeters from PE.  I used Audua's SpeakerWorkshop to develop a crossover.  This thing sounds sweet!  On the front, I mounted the Exact amplifier from Aaron Hammett of Envision Electronics.  In case you haven't noticed, Aaron is good with amplifiers, whether they are new or buyouts.  Check with him sometime!
    
12. Another project I'm excited about is building some Ohm Acoustics Walsh 2's using some ohm drivers I got from Ebay.  I'll keep you posted when I start building them.  I even have the original crossovers, but the drivers are so smooth (and the crossover so complex), that I think I'll toy with making some simpler ones just to see what I can come up with.
    
13. I've recently completed a sub using a Titanic 15" #295-420, the 3.0 cu. ft. subwoofer box #302-820 from PE, and an Adire 250 watt sub amp.  The PE items were tent sale purchases.  I don't have a pic, but you can view the sub box and subwoofer on Parts Express' web site.  Alas, you can't get the Adire amp anymore, but it looks to be an exact copy of the Parts Express Amp #300-796.  Hmmm...  Looks like that one is history as well.  It's a shame.  They are both great amps.  This thing is impressive in looks and power.  It's definitely a great music sub, and a very good home theater sub, but as impressive as it is, mine is still way better BWAHAHAHAHA!!!!  Sorry about that, couldn't resist.  I must admit that if I didn't have my sub, this would've probably satisfied me - even more so had I built an EBS vented system in a big box.  I still get much better infrasonic effects from those T-Rex footprints, and a bit more oomph on explosions from my sub.  I really think that DIYers might get more bang for their buck if they go with a pair of PE IB woofers in very large sealed boxes (or infinitely baffled - DUH), and a good 250 watt to 400 watt amp.  Bass is just more palpable.  Those IB people really know what they're talking about!
    
14. I'm also building another subwoofer using the PE Dual Voice Coil 15" Driver #295-190, The 2.5 cu. ft. subwoofer box #302-830, and the Parts Express Amp #300-796.  The sub, box, and amp were PE tent sale items.  The sub was breaking up, so my buddy at Eminence took it back to fix it.  Apparently the voice coil was rubbing.  He was going to rebuild it, but we're not sure if the frame is sound, so I may go with another driver.  In any case, this combination would have been great (except for that sub "breaking up" thingy).  Take these comments with a grain of salt since the subwoofer driver was acting up.  This combination doesn't appear as powerful as the Titanic.  I missed the first T-Rex footprint, and the second and third are there, but not overly powerful.  (Then again, could it be the amp?  I haven't measured it, yet.)  It appears to be a good music sub and home theater sub, but not as powerful as the titanic.  I would recommend the Titanic over the DVC for home theater.  Either would suffice for music only.  However, I still believe a pair of 15" IB subs would be the way to go, but then again, I'm biased by the sound of my own subs which are essentially IB (13 cu. ft. per woofer).  It appears that the PE 15" Classic Subwoofer #295-470 would be an excellent woofer as well for similar box size and amplifier power.