If you are looking for a
nice
cookbook of formulas here, you won't find them. You can find
formulas in a myriad of places from the internet
to
The
LoudSpeaker
Design CookBook by
Vance
Dickason, as well as other speakerbuilding
books. Instead,
what I want to cover are some points
about crossovers that most people don't think about.
The typical speakerbuilding newbie goes through a scenario something
like this,
"I will buy
so and so
drivers, build the box according to formulas or programs, pick a
crossover point somewhere between the limits of the woofer and tweeter,
and depending on the driver's impedance rating, plug 4 ohms or 8 ohms
into the textbook formulas and I should have a great sounding speaker."
Wrong, wrong, wrong. Unless the newbie is extremely lucky,
his
speaker will sound like crap. Why? Because
crossovers
depend on the exact impedance at the crossover point, as well as the
acoustic offset of the drivers. Also, various crossover types
such as second order Butterworth will alter the frequency response by
as much as 3 dB if executed properly! Finally, there is
baffle
step which causes a loss of bass. Let's look a little more
closely at these problems.
Impedance
Issues
Textbook formulas are difficult to execute properly when based on the
driver's nominal impedance. Look at the impedance curve for
any 6
1/2" woofer. You will see the typical impedance peak at the
resonant frequency usually somewhere below 100 Hz. This may
be as
high as 100 ohms. Then the impedance droops back to the
nominal
value after a few hundred Hz, but then rises smoothly after this due to
the voice coil inductance. This rising impedance may become
as
high as the impedance at the resonance! By the time the
frequency
is up to typical crossover frequencies (say 2 kHz to 3.5 kHz), the
impedance may be between 10 and 20 ohms!!! This will cause
the
crossover values to be significantly different than those for nominal
impedances of 4 or 8 ohms. This is one of the reasons that
using
nominal impedance with textbook formulas rarely will yield satisfactory
results. Likewise, tweeter crossovers may be affected by the
impedance peak at the tweeters resonance. This is why it is
suggested to crossover the tweeter one to two octaves above the
resonance.
There are two ways to deal with the problem of rising woofer
impedance. One is to actually measure (or read from a graph)
the
actual driver impedance at the crossover frequency. At least
design the woofer crossover based on about 12 ohms impedance.
This should get you in the ballpark. The only problem with
this
approach is that the impedance on either side of the crossover is not
constant, so you will get some wiggle around the crossover.
Of
course, as mentioned, cross the tweeter over about 1 1/2 to 2 times its
resonance, and it should be okay to use the nominal tweeter impedance
for the tweeter crossover.
The second way to deal with rising woofer impedance is to use impedance
compensating circuitry - a Zobel. A Zobel is a capacitor and
a
resistor in series placed across the woofer leads. Using a
Zobel
will flatten the rising impedance and bring it down to the nominal
range throughout the upper frequencies of the woofer. Then
use
the nominal woofer impedance to design the woofer crossover.
The
main drawback is that it will interfere with the woofer's frequency
response to an extent, but this is relatively minor compared to the
actual crossover network's changes. Again, look to the LDC or
the
internet for more information and formulas.
Acoustic
Offset
Textbook formulas assume that there is no acoustic offset between the
drivers. Acoustic offset is the difference in the distance of
the
voice coils of the two drivers from a vertical plane.
Actually,
it isn't exactly the voice coil centers, but it's close enough for our
purposes. Basically the woofer's acoustic center is further
back
than the tweeter's, and this difference introduces phase differences
which affects the summation of the driver's frequencies at the
crossover point. There are really only two things you can do
without measurement and crossover modeling software.
One, you can estimate the center of the voice coil for each driver as
the distance from the baffle to the center of the driver top
plate. Subtract the distance for one driver from that of the
other, and if this difference is half the wavelength of the crossover
frequency, then
reverse the tweeter's leads if you normally shouldn't, or don't reverse
them if you normally should. When the acoustic offset is one
half
the wavelength of the crossover frequency, the phase is reversed 180
degrees. Of course if the offset distance is an even multiple
of
the
crossover wavelength, then the phase difference is technically zero,
and the textbook formulas should work as they are.
Two, you can build a step into the baffle to align the tweeter and
woofer centers. You can assume that the acoustic center is at
the
center of the top plate. That isn't entirely true, but it's
as
close as you can get without measurement software.
One final note, also try to keep the distance between the driver's
centers (as mounted on the baffle) less than the wavelength of the
crossover frequency.
Don't put the woofer at the bottom of a tower, and the tweeter at the
top, and try to cross them over at a high frequency ;-)
Crossover
Types
First order crossovers are notoriously difficult to implement
properly. Don't get me wrong, many speakers that only have a
capacitor on the tweeter, and nothing (or an inductor) on the woofer
can sound quite good. But usually it's difficult to combine
the
drivers to have a true 6 dB/octave crossover because the driver's
curves
will roll off faster than that, and the acoustic centers should be time
aligned. Sometimes it's better to use steeper slopes on the
crossovers so that the drivers interfere with each other
less.
Second Order Butterworth
networks actually don't sum flat. They will sum to a +3 dB
peak
around the crossover. One way to overcome this effect is to
spread out the crossover frequencies. Let the woofer's
crossover
frequency be, say X/1.3, and the tweeter's be 1.3 * X, where "X" is the
crossover frequency. This will cause the crossover to sum
flatter
by causing a dip where there would normally be a peak. The
peak
and dip cancel each other out, and the response will be flat.
Personally, I would recommend the following crossover types:
Second Order Linkwitz/Riley
Third order Butterworth
These crossovers are more forgiving of acoustic offsets, and don't
cause peaks at
the crossover frequency when implemented properly. Note that
the
fourth order Linkwitz/Riley network is really difficult to implement
properly, since a true fourth order acoustic response can actually be
attained with lower order networks. This is because the
driver's
actual roll off combines with the electrical network to give the true
acoustical slope of the crossover. Often a second order
network
on the tweeter can be combined with a third order on the woofer to give
a fourth order acoustical response.
Baffle
Step
Baffle step is more
accurately called
Diffraction Step. When a driver or sets of drivers play on a
baffle, they put out sound that is radiated into a half-space or
hemisphere. All sound energy is radiated forward, including
sound
that would have radiated around the driver. This boosts the
sound
level by 6 dB. When the frequency drops below the wavelength
that
is equal to the baffle width, the sound begins radiating into full
space to the front and to the back. This causes a net loss of
bass. This is Diffraction Step (Baffle Step). There
are
sites (
trueaudio
by John L. Murphy
comes to mind) that have formulas for circuits to counter the Baffle
Step phenomenon. I would suggest that you don't try to do a
full
6 dB baffle step compensation, but only do about 3 dB or so.
I
would also suggest that Baffle Step may not be as big a problem as
people seem to think. If your speakers are located near the
walls, the bass will be restored by corner loading effects, though
there may still be a slight dip at a few hundred hertz. Room
affects (corner loading and standing waves) will probably mess with the
frequency just as much as baffle step. However, if you locate
the
speakers away from walls, then baffle step becomes a major issue, and
I'll leave you to study it more fully at other sites.
I hope these tips will help newbies as they try to sort through speaker
building by ear. I most definitely suggest getting a
measurement
system.
SpeakerWorkshop
from
Audua
is
free, but difficult to learn. And even though it's free, by
the
time you make a measurement jig, buy a microphone and microphone
preamp, you may very well spend about $130 or so. But if you
are
serious about making this a hobby, it is well worth it. You
will
realize as I did that it's easier to let the computer model for you;
however, I usually find myself listening to far more crossovers,
now. A crossover may look as though it models fairly flat,
but in
reality may sound quite shrill, so I keep tweaking it until it sounds
good. Use modeling software, but temper
it with lots of listening.
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Last updated
7/31/08